LONDON –
Simon Holloway, the designer for Dunhill, has unveiled the brand’s Spring 2027 collection, marking a continued strategic focus on timeless British menswear archetypes for the heritage label best known for its tailoring, leather goods and accessories.[3]
The collection represents a shift away from disposable seasonal trends, prioritizing long-term stylistic references and archival integration. This approach positions the brand within a luxury framework that emphasizes continuity and historical identity over rapid trend cycles, aligning with broader industry pressure to address overproduction and waste under European Union textile and sustainability directives.[EU textiles strategy]
Design References and Stylistic Influences
For the second consecutive season, Holloway has cited Lord Snowdon as a primary inspiration, underscoring his commitment to a coherent, season-to-season narrative rather than a carousel of new themes.
“Because I just don’t view these moods as disposable,” Holloway said during a walk-through of the collection. “I feel like they’re timeless… I’ve just added to the references this time.”
The Spring 2027 mood board expanded to include Roger Moore, specifically referencing the actor’s use of blue blazers and white turtlenecks – a cinematic shorthand for an urbane, mid‑century British leading man. The designer also incorporated the influence of artist Lucian Freud, specifically his method of tying scarves over unbuttoned shirts, a detail Holloway translates into an off-duty but carefully studied form of elegance.
Holloway noted that the technique “looks really simple, but it’s really hard, so we had to teach ourselves how,” adding, “You go up and over, and it almost creates like a little tie knot. Isn’t that nice?” The insistence on perfecting even this small gesture mirrors the house’s broader push for craft-led refinement rather than runway theatrics.
Material Composition and Tailoring
The collection utilizes high-end textiles, including rare Escorial wool, Dupioni silk, and worsted cashmere panama for its double-breasted tailoring – materials chosen not only for their hand-feel but for their durability, supporting Holloway’s claim of clothes designed to live in a wardrobe for decades rather than a single season.
The wardrobe is anchored by blazers in varying shades of blue and different levels of formality, reinforcing Dunhill’s core identity in structured daywear. One specific navy iteration is designed as a hybrid between a sport coat and a pea coat, a transitional piece aimed at clients who move regularly between business, travel and evening environments.
Other seasonal offerings include:
- Handkerchief linen shirts with a flared back, cut to move away from the body in warmer weather.
- A suede car coat in olive, echoing the brand’s historic links to motoring culture.
- Chinos in sky blue, intended as a lighter counterpoint to the navy tailoring story.
- Monochromatic gray ensembles referencing 1980s style, updated with sharper proportions.
Collectively, the pieces form what Holloway presents as a modular wardrobe: garments that can be recombined across seasons rather than bought and discarded as discrete fashion moments.
Archival Integration and Visual Presentation
Holloway integrated elements from the Dunhill archives, specifically an enamel lighter featuring spade, diamond, club, and heart patterns. This playing-card motif was applied to waistcoats, dressing gowns, and evening slippers available in black or cream, bringing one of the house’s historic product categories – smoking accessories – into dialogue with its contemporary ready-to-wear.[1]
The collection’s look book was photographed by Ethan James Green, whose portrait-driven style underscores Holloway’s emphasis on character over costume. In one evening ensemble, Holloway opted for mismatched footwear, pairing one white shoe with one black shoe – a small visual disruption within an otherwise restrained silhouette.
“You know, we’re English. We like a touch of eccentricity, so why not go a bit bananas on the footwear?” Holloway said.
Despite these elements, the designer stated that the overall formula is one of understatement.
“You really see the person, the character, the man,” Holloway said. “Maybe you notice him because he appears to be well dressed. I mean, that’s really the aim of this.”
The Spring 2027 collection is currently in the look book and presentation phase, serving as a signal to wholesale partners, department stores and private clients of where Holloway intends to steer Dunhill’s menswear vocabulary over the coming years.
